The Gauteng Gourmet Guide to Saving the Planet (one mouthful at a time)
By Anna Trapido; chef, food writer and author of To the Banqueting House; African food an epic journey & Hunger for Freedom; the story of food in the life of Nelson Mandela
1. Eco-epicurean issues are increasingly important to foodies.
2. The good news is that eco-epicurean issues are no longer the preserve of Birckenstock clad, poncho wearing types.
3. It can be cool and delicious to eat in a manner that is good for the health and well being of people, livestock and the planet.
4. It is a huge and diverse topic.
5. Different issues are important to different people and different culinary cultures – in Paris recently I saw a lot of organic foie gras on menus – for many South African exponents of an organic lifestyle eating a force fed goose isn’t made better by the fact that the goose ate organic feed and was not given antibiotics.
6. What follows is not intended to be a comprehensive guide to saving the planet with food. It is just a few pointers as to how one might start to eat in an eco-epicurean manner both at home and when dining out.
Fish and seafood
1. Seafood is a delicious and healthy source of protein but, as demand outstrips supply, foodie fish lovers must make eco-friendly epicurean choices.
2. The Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative list makes it possible to eat guilt free fabulous fish.
3. This helpful pocket guide categorises seafood into ‘green light’ species from well managed populations such as yellowtail, ‘orange light’ species like kingklip and kabeljou which are prone to over fishing and ‘red light’ endangered species (like white stump nose) which cannot be legally sold.
4. The guide also offers a fish substitute list for those lusting after a species that can no longer be ethically consumed.
5. When eating out look for the SASSI restaurant participation scheme logo. SASSI Aware restaurants undertake never to buy a red list species and to always have green light species on the menu. SASSI Champion venues go one step further and undertake to only sell green light goods. Participating restaurants are listed on the SASSI web site www.wwfsassi.co.za
6. You can also sms 079 4998795 type in the name of a fish and a message comes back as to where it falls on sassi list and why.
7. There is also a WAP site (scaled down web site for cell users) www.wwfsassi.mobi
SCANDAL: The only Gauteng participating restaurants listed on the SASSI site is the John Dorey group. Treat all other seafood in Gauteng with extreme caution.
The only way policy will change is by customers asking where the fish comes from, how it was caught and where it falls on the SASSI list.
Red meat
1. When it comes to beef it’s not just what you eat but what your dinner ate first that counts.
2. The grass fed verses grain fed debate can be confusing but the key issue is that cows don’t naturally eat grain.
• When they do it alters the make up of the meat.
• The effort required to make a cow eat grain impacts on the environment.
3. Why you should eat grass fed if it’s human health that concerns you:
• In grain fed cattle the ratio of omega 6 to omega 3 is 14 parts omega 6: 1 part omega 3 - a ratio linked with increased obesity, heart disease and cancer.
• Plus grain fed beasts are raised in half the time that it takes to bring a grass fed beast to slaughter with the aid of growth hormones which cause a range of system imbalances which in turn require antibiotics which are then present in the meat.
4. If its global warming that concerns you:
• The carbon emissions from grain fed meat production are considerably higher than with pastured meat. Grain is grown with fossil fuel synthesized fertilizers which needs to be stored and transported. Pastures can be fertilized with cow manure. Since grass fed cows gain their energy from photosynthesis they are actually carbon sink holes – basically solar powered steak.
5. If its just taste that concerns you: grass fed tastes much better. The meat comes from animals that took twice as long to come to slaughter and consequently have much better natural marbling.
Where to buy grass fed:
• Braeside Butchery, Parkhurst 011 788 3612
• Many branches of Woolworths and Pick and Pay – mark the grass fed beef as such.
• Local Grill, Parktown North 011 880 1946 & Sandton 011 783 4331
Vegetarian chic
• Meaty Sunday roasts stand accused of engendering many of the world’s environmental woes.
• According to the United Nations senior climate expert Rajendra Pachauri “our appetite for animal flesh is boosting fertiliser production, pollution and emission of greenhouse gases to dangerous levels.”
• Speaking in The UK Observer newspaper Pachauri argued that “we need to all give up meat - at least for one day a week - and we can help to save the Earth.”
• So how do we eat vegetarian but not sacrifice taste?
• Go to Fresh Earth Food Store in Emmarentia 011 646 4404
• Chef Matthew Ballenden has a regular lunch buffet with the likes of rosemary-laden focaccia bread, butternut, sage and pecan nut lasagne, Moroccan style vegetable tagine, minted couscous salads etc. They even serve gluten free chocolate brownies!
Two eco-epicurean holiday option to consider:
!Khwa ttu 022 492 2998/ info@khwattu.org/ www.khwattu.org
• The San people were the first human inhabitants of Southern Africa.
• !Khwa ttu is a San run community project in Yzerfontein in the Western Cape which offers an authentic, dignified celebration of San culture past and present.
• Those interested in food culture will love the 2 hour excursion led by San guides which explores the indigenous edible plant knowledge of the community.
• It includes San community elders reveal the secrets of making bread from Peucedanum sulcatum (also known as beer root) in handmade sand ovens and there is an edible indigenous plant walk where San guides share their knowledge of traditional tea making plants such as Datura stramonium (also known as the common thorn apple).
Elgin Valley Green Mountain Eco Route 021 844 0975 www.greenmountain.co.za
• Where would we be without wine?
• Elgin Valley Green Mountain Eco-route is the world’s first biodiversity wine and ecology circuit which supports the Cape Floral Kingdom.
• All those who are on the Green Mountain Eco Route are committed to conservation, sustainability and social upliftment. All members belong to the Groenlandberg Conservancy. All wine growers and grape producers are Biodiversity Wine Initiative members.
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